It is Spring Tune-up Time.

     It is easy to tune-up your tractor, lawn mower, or anything that uses a small gasoline engine. The procedure that is laid out here assumes that you have basic mechanical skills and the correct tools.

     Lets start with a good clean-up. A little soap and water will make the job easier. If you have a pressure washer feel free to use it but, equipment manufacturers would never use a 1000+ PSI washer. Take care that you do not force dirt and water into bearings that were not designed to withstand that kind of pressure. The high pressure spray will also wash away any lubricant that it hits. After a good cleaning it would not hurt to wax the steel metal. Some small tractors cost more than the car I drive (well maybe the car my brother drive's).

     The next step is to inspect the deck, deck belts, hangers, and blades. If anything is broken or worn, replace it now. You can find belts, blades and deck parts here. A tip here is to grab the blade tips and see if you can rock the blades, any movement more than 1/8" should be investigated. Make sure you replace any guides that you remove or are missing. If you have the deck off or tractor jacked up, remove the blades and have them sharpened. You can get the blades off by blocking the blade with a Blade Lock and unscrewing the blade bolt or nut. Wearing gloves is a good idea especially when re-installing the sharpened or new blades. Its a good idea to replace belts that have any signs of wear or are 4 seasons old. That way you are guaranteed to get through the next cutting season without any downtime for a belt. They always brake when your halfway through your lawn and you wife just happens to be "checking on you".

     Now is a good time to grease the tractor, especially if you have removed the deck. Use your owner's manual. Most owner's manuals will point out where, and what kind of lube should be applied.

     Check the air in the tires for correct pressure. Low tire pressure can affect the quality of cut that you tractor will give. Lets stop here an change the oil. Check the oil level. If its ok, start the engine and allow it to warm up a little. This will make the oil easier to change and will also stir up the dirt that maybe in the oil pan so that it will come out with the used oil. Stop the engine. Spread some newspaper or have some Oil Sponge on hand. Now drain the oil into a receptacle. Here is clean easy way to remove used oil, the "Oil Pump". Don't forget to replace the drain plug before refilling. If your engine is equipped with a oil filter, change it now. Fill the new oil filter with enough oil to at least wet the paper material inside. This will prevent a dry engine start up. Refill the engine with the proper oil. Now for the engine parts.

Gasoline is very dangerous. Work only in a well ventilated area, away from any source of heat or open flame!

     Start by changing the fuel filter. Clamp off the fuel line between the tank and the fuel filter. Remove the filter by loosing the clamps that hold it and pulling it out of the hose. Be careful to catch any gasoline that may spill. Always replace the hose that is between the filter and the carburetor. Notice that the filter usually has barbs on it. These barbs tear the inside of the hose when the filter is removed. A piece of hose could enter the carb and cause real problems.

     Remove the air filter and precleaner. Clean or replace them as necessary. Be carefull if you have an air compressor. Do not use high pressure that will create small holes in the filter. Reinstall the Air Cleaner.

     This step is very important. Inspect the area of the cooling shroud. This is the cover that is over the engine itself. What you are looking for is any signs there maybe of a mouse nest inside. Don't laugh. If you have never had one just wait and you will. If you do not remove it or grass clippings block the cooling fins of the engine, its toast. A tell tale sign of a mouse nest is thread or cloth. Some grass clippings are normal and need to be cleaned out. Or you might have an engine fire... 

     With the engine cold, replace the spark plug. The aluminium head can be distorted a little when its hot. This could cause the spark plug removal to damage the threads. Check the gap of the spark plug. Install a new spark plug of the correct type. Here is a tip, if the plug is in a hard to reach area, use a piece of 1/4" fuel line to hold the plug. Turn the hose to hand tighten the plug. Always thread the plug as far as it will go (or at least 2 full turns) by hand. That way you know you will not damage the plug hole. Torque the spark plug to the manufacturers spec. You can find the specs in their engine manual. If your engine is equipped with a point ignition, replace the points and condenser using your service manual as a guide. You might even consider converting your ignition system to electronic. Feel free to call or e-mail us for the propper parts for your application. 

     While you are working around the tractor grab and shake things as you go. This is to help located loose or missing parts. Rock the wheels to see if the bearings are loose or worn. Check the ball joints for signs of wear. Are all the deck hangers tight? Look for loose or missing bolts, clips or pins. Finding one now may save not only down time during the cutting season, it could save a "big" repair bill later.

     Check every electrical wiring plug that you find for tight fix and corrosion. Repair them now, not when the grass is 4" high and getting higher. The battery is often overlooked. It needs service even if it started your unit right up. Just looking at the battery can save trouble later. If the case looks bulged replace the battery. Measure the voltage. If the voltage is below 9 volts the battery probably will not last much longer. Inspect the terminals to make sure they are clean and tight. If not fix them now or replace the bad battery parts. Fill the battery with water to the full mark and charge it with a battery charger. You should be ready to tackle those lawn chores now.

Happy Mowing.